Tuesday, 9 December 2014

Darkroom timeline

     I first got my strip of negatives back from Keith after he had processed my film for me
2)      I then cut the long strip of negatives into smaller strips which were 6 frames long
3)      I then took my negatives to the dark room
4)      Once in the dark room, the red safe light was turned on to ensure the light sensitive paper does not get fogged
5)      The first thing I did when I was in the dark room was make sure the enlarger and easel were set correctly. I set the easel to 7.5 inches by 10.5 inches, I set the enlarger to grade 3 and set the aperture on the enlarger to 5.6.
6)      I then removed the negative carrier from the top of the enlarger and inserted my strip of negative into it then returned It to the top of the enlarger.
7)      I then ran the enlarger in order to make sure the image I would be printing would be the correct size and in focus. I adjusted the height of the enlarger and used the focusing wheel on the side of the enlarger to ensure that the image filled the space where the paper will be placed and is in focus
8)      Once I was happy with the image, I then turned off the enlarger and set it so it would run for 3 seconds at a time then turn off automatically. I tested this before getting the paper to make sure the enlarger was set up properly.
9)      I then got a small piece of light sensitive paper in order to carry out a test print on it.
10)   I covered most of the paper with a piece of thick card then ran the enlarger.  I moved the card slightly then ran the enlarger again. I repeated this process until I reached the end of the test paper.
11)   I then took the paper and placed it in the developer tray for 1 minute and kept the developer moving over the developing image for the duration
12)   I then moved the paper from the developer to the stop with the tongs provided, I left it there for 30 seconds, again keeping the stop fluid moving over the paper.
13)   After this I moved the paper to the fix tray and kept this moving over it for another 30.
14)   After this I moved the newly printed photograph to the water bath to rinse for 10 minutes
15)   I then took the photograph out of the water bath and viewed it in day light in order to determine the correct exposure time for that image.
16)   I then repeated this process several times until I found an image with an exposure time which I liked.
17)   Once I had found an image and exposure time I liked, I set the enlarger to run for that exposure time and made sure I had focused the image correctly
18)   I then got another test piece of paper and ran the enlarger for the full amount of time over the entire piece of paper.
19)   I developed this image in the same way, I placed it in the developer for 1 minute, then in the stop for 30 seconds then in the fix for a further 30 seconds  then in the water for 10 minutes.
20)   I then viewed this image in actual light. I did this so I could see what the final print would look like if I was to carry out the final print with the settings as they were
21)   I repeated this process until I was happy with the results I was getting.
22)   Once I was happy with my test prints I then checked the boarder guide plates were set to they would give a boarder of 0.25 inches all the way around the edge of the print.
23)   Once I had checked that everything was right and I was happy with the way everything was set, I then got a large sheet of paper for my final print and placed it on the easel and made sure it was liked up correctly.
24)   I then ran the enlarger for the amount of time I decided was the best for that image.
25)   Then I placed the print into the developer for 1 minute, then in the stop for 30 second, then in the fix for another 30 seconds then in the water for 10 minutes

26)   After my print had been in the water for 10 minutes I then removed it and left it to dry.

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